We interviewed Basco founder Javier De La Hormaza and asked him to share with us the best places to eat in San Sebastian and he did not disappoint. Because San Sebastian is the epicentre of the finest Spanish food, to make things difficult for Javier, we asked him to limit it to just six of his absolute favourite restaurants and bars.
After much deliberation and internal struggles, Javier drew up his shortlist along with a few personal observations on each. Let’s get started.
Rekondo
Nestled at the foot of Monte Igeldo, with stunning views of Donostia bay, Rekondo is one of the absolute best places to eat in San Sebastian. Chef Iñaki Arrieta has been in charge of the Rekondo kitchen for over 20 years and creates masterful dishes using only the finest local Basque country ingredients. For many, eating at this incredible restaurant is a once in a lifetime experience.
“Rekondo has one of Europe’s best wine cellars and is a real special occasion restaurant. The beautiful terrace is one of my favourite spots to dine in San Sebastian. My best food memory of my daughter, Sofia, was when she was 2 years old eating their superb clams in salsa verde! We came back the following year and she asked for them again.”
Rekondo, Paseo de Igeldo 57, 20008 Donostia / San Sebastián
Ganbara
You cannot visit San Sebastian without popping in at Ganbara, meaning “the attic” in Basque, which is odd as it is spread over ground and basement levels. This famous tiny pintxo bar in the “Parte Vieja” old town neighbourhood is undisputably one of the best places to eat in San Sebastian. Founded over 40 years ago by Jose Ignacio and his wife Amaia, this lively pintxo bar and fine dining restaurant has food to die for. Try their signature dish of seasonal wild mushrooms with egg yolk and foie gras, chistorra puff pastry rolls and pan-fried anchovies in garlic and chilli. All astoundingly good.
“Ganbara is probably the most sought after pintxo bar in the old part of San Sebastian. It has a small number of sit-down tables downstairs – you really need to go early or expect to queue.”
Ganbara, Calle de San Jeronim 21, 20003 Donostia / San Sebastián
Muka
Overlooking the Urumea River and opened in 2022, Muka is a relatively new addition to the San Sebastian restaurant scene and is situated in the striking Kursaal Congress Centre. The two chefs that run Muka have real pedigree and it shows in the menu and execution. At the centre of this contemporary restaurant is a bar that surrounds the open grill which gives diners a front row view of the chefs crafting inventive dishes over flames. Try razor clams, green sauce and spicy radish or Iberian pork fan with a mushroom marinade. Interestingly, the excellent olive oil served here is made by one of the chefs using different Spanish olives, harvested from tiny plots. A nice touch.
“I have eaten here twice and I’ve been impressed by the great produce with solid charcoal cooking as the focus. It’s reasonably priced, too, especially when you consider that the concept has been developed by renowned Basque chef Andoni Luis Aduriz from the 2-star Mugaritz.”
Muka, Avenida de la Zurriola 1, 20002 Donostia / San Sebastián
Juanito Kojua
Recommended not only by Javier, but the Michelin Guide, too, Juanito Kojua is a Basque restaurant in the very heart of old town San Sebastian with a traditional “txoko” private dining room in its cellar. Established almost 80 years ago, its seasonal menu features 100% authentic Basque cuisine and specialises in fresh seafood. Famous plates include Basque-style hake loin, Donostia-style crab and grilled Bay of Biscay lobster. All three are classics.
“An institution in San Sebastian, even my grandfather used to come and eat at Juanito Kojua when it first opened in the 1950s. It specialises in traditional Basque cooking with wonderfully attentive service. I ate there this summer and we loved it.”
Juanito Kojua, Portu Kalea 14, 20003 Donostia / San Sebastián
grupogarrancho.com/en/carta/juanito-kojua/
Bodegón Alejandro
Bodegón Alejandro is entirely focused on the authenticity, tradition and the classic flavours of Basque gastronomy. The intimate and cosy dining room is presided over by an enormous and spectacular circular watercolour of San Sebastian, painted in the 1820s. The cooking is equally impressive. From exceptional starters including Arturo Sánchez Iberian ham and Donostia-style spider crab with pil pil foam to mains of fresh chopped squid stew with its own ink and gargantuan beef chops, eating here is a real experience.
“I have eaten here a few times during the years and it never fails. From the seasonal ingredients to cooking expertise and attention to detail are always very consistent. I totally recommend the tasting menu – you will not be disappointed.”
Bodegón Alejandro, Fermín Calbetón Kalea 4, 20003 Donostia / San Sebastián
Bar Nestor
Tucked away in a nook in the old town, with football and rugby shirts signed by Basque stars adorning the walls, Bar Nestor must be one of the best places to eat in San Sebastian. At this traditional Basque restaurant, it’s all about two things – huge beautifully marbled txuleta steak and luscious tortilla de patatas. Javier cannot get enough of both.
“This is the place to go for a txuleta steak. There is only one table, Table 19, and it can be reserved in advance. They only serve steak, green peppers and tomato salad. Last time I went there was a champion sumo wrestler from Japan who ate 2 massive steaks! They also serve their famous tortilla at 1pm and 8pm every day but arrive early or it goes. This is the place we took all our friends and family the day after my wedding and I have visited with many chefs that are Basco customers. So, as you can see. I am very fond off it!”
Bar Nestor, Arrandegi Kalea 11, 20003 Donostia / San Sebastián
Explore San Sebastian yourself
If you want to experience the best places to eat in San Sebastian, use Javier’s shortlist as a starter. Then enjoy wandering through Spain’s historic food capital discovering favourites of your own and immersing yourself in Basque food, drink and culture.
